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Fashion collections, collectors, and exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : historical imagination, the spectacular past, and the practice of restoration

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Abstract
This article explores fashion collecting and dress exhibitions in nineteenth-century France. The first three exhibitions of historic dress in France, which occurred in 1874, 1892, and 1900, raised a host of questions for French dress historians, collectors, and curators: they debated how historical dress should be displayed, what kind of garments should be collected, and what role fashion had in the narrative of French history. This article explores the “historical turn” in dress history, which formalized the practice of using historical garments and accessories as sources for the writing and display of history. It also examines how the shift from industrial to decorative arts spurred an interest in fashion collecting. Finally, it argues that the spectacularization of fashion display between 1874 and 1900 had an impact on the garments themselves, as collectors and curators began to alter garments in order to display them within imaginative settings. Rather than condemning these restorations, this article proposes that we view them as forms of historical imagination. Keywords: historiography, exhibitions, collecting, nineteenth century, France
Keywords
Historiography, exhibitions, collecting, nineteenth century, France

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MLA
Bass-Krueger, Maude. “Fashion Collections, Collectors, and Exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : Historical Imagination, the Spectacular Past, and the Practice of Restoration.” FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE, vol. 22, no. 4–5, 2018, pp. 405–33.
APA
Bass-Krueger, M. (2018). Fashion collections, collectors, and exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : historical imagination, the spectacular past, and the practice of restoration. FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE, 22(4–5), 405–433.
Chicago author-date
Bass-Krueger, Maude. 2018. “Fashion Collections, Collectors, and Exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : Historical Imagination, the Spectacular Past, and the Practice of Restoration.” FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE 22 (4–5): 405–33.
Chicago author-date (all authors)
Bass-Krueger, Maude. 2018. “Fashion Collections, Collectors, and Exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : Historical Imagination, the Spectacular Past, and the Practice of Restoration.” FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE 22 (4–5): 405–433.
Vancouver
1.
Bass-Krueger M. Fashion collections, collectors, and exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : historical imagination, the spectacular past, and the practice of restoration. FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE. 2018;22(4–5):405–33.
IEEE
[1]
M. Bass-Krueger, “Fashion collections, collectors, and exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : historical imagination, the spectacular past, and the practice of restoration,” FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE, vol. 22, no. 4–5, pp. 405–433, 2018.
@article{8636581,
  abstract     = {This article explores fashion collecting and dress exhibitions in nineteenth-century France. The first three exhibitions of historic dress in France, which occurred in 1874, 1892, and 1900, raised a host of questions for French dress historians, collectors, and curators: they debated how historical dress should be displayed, what kind of garments should be collected, and what role fashion had in the narrative of French history. This article explores the “historical turn” in dress history, which formalized the practice of using historical garments and accessories as sources for the writing and display of history. It also examines how the shift from industrial to decorative arts spurred an interest in fashion collecting. Finally, it argues that the spectacularization of fashion display between 1874 and 1900 had an impact on the garments themselves, as collectors and curators began to alter garments in order to display them within imaginative settings. Rather than condemning these restorations, this article proposes that we view them as forms of historical imagination.

Keywords: historiography, exhibitions, collecting, nineteenth century, France},
  author       = {Bass-Krueger, Maude},
  issn         = {1362-704X},
  journal      = {FASHION THEORY-THE JOURNAL OF DRESS BODY & CULTURE},
  keywords     = {Historiography,exhibitions,collecting,nineteenth century,France},
  language     = {eng},
  number       = {4-5},
  pages        = {405--433},
  title        = {Fashion collections, collectors, and exhibitions in France, 1874–1900 : historical imagination, the spectacular past, and the practice of restoration},
  url          = {http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2018.1425354},
  volume       = {22},
  year         = {2018},
}

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