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Boussinesq-type modeling of sediment transport and coastal morphology

Author
Organization
Abstract
A two horizontal dimensional compound model is developed to simulate coastal sediment transport and bed morphology evolution due to wave action. The wave module is a higher-order Boussinesq-type model. The bed load in the surf zone is computed from an advanced semi-empirical formula while the suspended load can be calculated through the solution of the advection-diffusion equation for the sediment or alternatively from a simplified formula. The estimation of the sediment transport in the swash zone is based on the ballistic theory. The unified sediment transport module is valid under combined waves and currents including the wave asymmetry and phase-lag effects. The bathymetry is updated through the sediment conservation equation and the morphological accelerator factor technique accounts for extended simulation time. The model is validated against a number of short-term tests in one horizontal dimension. The response is generally good with most of the morphological features being reproduced in the cross-shore direction. A comparison between various sediment transport formulae and a sensitivity analysis are also performed illustrating the need for inclusion of the phase-lag effects.
Keywords
Sediment transport, coastal morphology, Boussinesq model, morphological factor, phase-lag effects, BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION, SHEET FLOW CONDITIONS, BED-LOAD TRANSPORT, SUSPENDED SEDIMENT, SWASH-ZONE, OSCILLATORY FLOW, NONLINEAR-WAVES, SURF ZONE, GENERAL FORMULA, EQUATIONS

Citation

Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:

MLA
Klonaris, Georgios et al. “Boussinesq-type Modeling of Sediment Transport and Coastal Morphology.” COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL 59.1 (2017): n. pag. Print.
APA
Klonaris, G., Memos, C. D., Drønen, N. K., & Deigaard, R. (2017). Boussinesq-type modeling of sediment transport and coastal morphology. COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL, 59(1).
Chicago author-date
Klonaris, Georgios, Constantine D Memos, Nils K Drønen, and Rolf Deigaard. 2017. “Boussinesq-type Modeling of Sediment Transport and Coastal Morphology.” Coastal Engineering Journal 59 (1).
Chicago author-date (all authors)
Klonaris, Georgios, Constantine D Memos, Nils K Drønen, and Rolf Deigaard. 2017. “Boussinesq-type Modeling of Sediment Transport and Coastal Morphology.” Coastal Engineering Journal 59 (1).
Vancouver
1.
Klonaris G, Memos CD, Drønen NK, Deigaard R. Boussinesq-type modeling of sediment transport and coastal morphology. COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL. 2017;59(1).
IEEE
[1]
G. Klonaris, C. D. Memos, N. K. Drønen, and R. Deigaard, “Boussinesq-type modeling of sediment transport and coastal morphology,” COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL, vol. 59, no. 1, 2017.
@article{8533896,
  abstract     = {A two horizontal dimensional compound model is developed to simulate coastal sediment transport and bed morphology evolution due to wave action. The wave module is a higher-order Boussinesq-type model. The bed load in the surf zone is computed from an advanced semi-empirical formula while the suspended load can be calculated through the solution of the advection-diffusion equation for the sediment or alternatively from a simplified formula. The estimation of the sediment transport in the swash zone is based on the ballistic theory. The unified sediment transport module is valid under combined waves and currents including the wave asymmetry and phase-lag effects. The bathymetry is updated through the sediment conservation equation and the morphological accelerator factor technique accounts for extended simulation time. The model is validated against a number of short-term tests in one horizontal dimension. The response is generally good with most of the morphological features being reproduced in the cross-shore direction. A comparison between various sediment transport formulae and a sensitivity analysis are also performed illustrating the need for inclusion of the phase-lag effects.},
  articleno    = {1750007},
  author       = {Klonaris, Georgios and Memos, Constantine D and Drønen, Nils K and Deigaard, Rolf},
  issn         = {0578-5634},
  journal      = {COASTAL ENGINEERING JOURNAL},
  keywords     = {Sediment transport,coastal morphology,Boussinesq model,morphological factor,phase-lag effects,BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION,SHEET FLOW CONDITIONS,BED-LOAD TRANSPORT,SUSPENDED SEDIMENT,SWASH-ZONE,OSCILLATORY FLOW,NONLINEAR-WAVES,SURF ZONE,GENERAL FORMULA,EQUATIONS},
  language     = {eng},
  number       = {1},
  pages        = {27},
  title        = {Boussinesq-type modeling of sediment transport and coastal morphology},
  url          = {http://dx.doi.org/10.1142/s0578563417500073},
  volume       = {59},
  year         = {2017},
}

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